toogreytogrind

After getting back from the Colca Canyon we went down to the bus station to get my jacket. It was there. Back from its trip to Lima. Even my hat was in the pocket. The only thing is they stapled a label onto it. So now my waterproof jacket is going to leak!

The Colca Canyon is famous for its condors. There´s pictures of them everywhere here. But to see one in real life is something else. Even at a distance they are massive. But it wouldn´t be until the last day when we´d see any.

First we were going to walk down to the canyon and back up. This gives you a real perspective on the grand scale of things here. We walked through some villages one with a population of 85 and the other of 180. It´s remarkable how so many people live in such a remote place.

I was in the terrapuerto again today to try and locate my jacket. They did some phoning around for me and tracked it down some where. I said that I was doing the Colca Canyon tomorrow and I would check up with them when I get back. I´ve got a Waterproof poncho to take to the canyon just in case of rain. But if I want to do El Misti then I´ll need something better than a 3 quid poncho. Well at least I got to practice a bit of Spanish.

After a 8 hour trip 1st class again. We arrived at 11:00pm. During the trip we had a game of BINGO and I won a bottle of Pisco. As usual there were taxi drivers waiting, and as before I asked someone in the station what was the normal price. After the taxi drivers refused to take us for the going rate we went to the street and got a taxi for the going rate of s/ 4. Wereas Nasca has the giant sand dune overlooking the town Arequipa has the volcano El Misti.

This was the other day, but I´m writing it up now. I didn´t think we`d get a good view of the lines, with being in such a small plane and with the light being so bright. And even worse photos. And I was right. But what a trip! It was the first time I`d been in a cessna and I wasn`t disapointed. We were in the back to seats sort off siting on the floor of the plane. You have to look hard to see the figures, but you can see them ok. If you want photos best to buy them I think, mine were either partial figures or so bright you can`t see what they are.

This was a reccommended place to stay by LP. So we had our plan to stay here to avoid the hawkers at the station. I was so preoccupied about the hawkers that I forgot my jacket. I only realised this today when I was packing to leave. We had a free taxi to the hostel by the Hostel and we didn´t pay nor leave any of our details until today. Nice, friendly place to stay with a TV, DVD, breakfast for s/5, swimming pool (to chill). We booked all our trips through here including the flight over the lines. Which was $45 ie the going rate with out the ripoff taxes I´ve heard people being stung with. When realising I´d left my jacket on the bus to chill out in the bus station in Lima, I asked at the desk and I got a "leave it with me". 10-20 minutes later I got called and said where I was going. Hopefully I will be reunited with my jacket in arequipa within a few days.

After leaving Cusco we had our 1st class bus journey. Even 1st class 14 hours through twisting roads is a lot and not ideal for sleep. So, was the extra "Lady Godiva" worth it? My knees didnt hurt so I guess yes. Arriving at Nasca we had decided on a place to stay and we walked on in to The Walk On Inn. Free taxi from the station and at s 45 a good price although we still haven´t paid.

Mirador
You can go to the mirador by a tour for only $7 per person or you can take the bus for s/ 2 there and s/ 2 back. It´s probably more hassle to book the tour. Ok it does cost s/ 1 more to climb the steel mirador to see the first view of the lines and glifs. You can see the frog and the tree and some lines. I can remember reading Chariots of the Gods by Erich von Däniken, in my teens. Interesting book but complete BS. On the subject, god I´m getting old. Well as a result I was bracing myself for the enormity of these things, but........ Well they are a lot smaller than I thought they would be. Ok they are not tiny, but tomorrow well be going up in a plane to see these from the air, will we be able to see them? The enormity is the question why and how. Are they paths? I think they´re too narrow.

Cementerio de chauchilla
Bone yard of the nasca people to you and me. An interesting day out if a bit strange. It was cheaper for us to do it as a trip but if you have a group of four could be better to take a taxi. The rest of the trip includes a visit of the ceramics workshop which was quite interesting and then a trip to a gold processing workshop, not so interesting and some very strong hints on tips.

In my last post I called an American guy staying in the hostel a hippy. Neil please don´t take offence to that name, you´re great, as are all the americans I´ve met on this trip. With one exception. Tonight we had the misfortune of meeting some guy from South Carolina. Or, how should I say a FUCKING RACIST BASTARD.
Up until this point the editor ie me has pro hibited the use of foul language but on this occasion, what the fuck. Anyone who thinks that it´s ok to bomb children in England in the name of Ireland, when they have never been there, and their only conection is a distant relative, is an cunt.

So far this has been a chilled out hostel but this changes things.

THE ABOVE: That was what I wrote last night. So to explain. We´ve been staying in the hostel Casa de la gringa, which has been chilled, well very chilled. But people have been coming and going. So when there are new people in the common area it´s usually nice to get to know them, you certainly assume that they are actually staying here. As it turns out this group of Americans were not even staying here. The rest seemed ok, it was just the guy from South Carolina who was the problem. He was saying that he was half Irish half Italian, he didn´t say what generation. Just one of the problems I had with him was that he was a IRA sympathiser. He stated that it is a war. Well, Shopping Centers are not military targets, they áre terrorist. I could go on but I wont.

You see people like this on TV, but I never thought that I would actually meet one of them. A few nights ago there were some guys here from Northern Ireland. They were great guys out for the CRACK. It would be interesting to have had them their to hear what was going on. Of all the places I´ve been so far, by this one experience, I would be more scared going to the American South than Latin America. One question I wish I asked him is "did you vote for Bush?" Then again maybe we can just assume that he did. If this is indicative of what a Bush voter is like then America is a very scary place.

This is the longest time we`ve stayed in one place. It`s a chilled out place with quite a few people who have been here quite a few weeks and months in some cases. They also have two cats, Angle and Pedro. Angle has been finding it´s way into our room the last few nights, usually just stopping for a few hours. It was always a mystery how he got into the room as we always had the door closed. This morning I work up with a scratching at my chest. The cat had managed to get into bed, and I do mean under the covers, and was sleeping next to me. He must have been dreaming about mice or something and needed something to scratch at and I was the nearest thing. Another night of bad sleep.

We were talking to one of the guys at the hostel, a mature hippy guy from Detroit and a veteran of many a trip to latin america and a verteran of many a TRIP. He`s been staying here for few months.

"he`s getting in throught the window, maaaan!

Thanks to his knowledge and experience we sleep well.

If only I had the advantage of that sort of knowledge. On that subject he did say we should try the San Perdo Trip.

So more on San Pedro next time

The theists would have us believe that we need a purpose to be on the face of the earth and that that purpose is to worship god. Whatever that god maybe. Although I may not believe that we have a predefinded purpose of worshiping something supernatural or beyond our perception, depending on what religion you like the best or grew up with, I do now want a purpose for this trip. Ok, I did have my goals and ideas for this trip, so those would be my purpose. But it´s now looking like those are changing. Some of the things I´ve done on this trip, that weren´t on the original plan, have been some of the highlights. So maybe it´s best to not have a plan. Well no have a plan you need one, just be flexible with it. Stopping in Cusco for over a week was not on the plan but I needed it, for time to relax and think. Now I am relaxing and thinking, I think maybe I´m thinking too much. What am I doing now and what will I do when I get back?

One of the goal of the trip was to see fantastic things that I´ve never seen before. Yes, I have done that and I am all the time. The next stop is Nazca to see the lines but I´m not liking the thought of getting on another bus. I never thought that the first time when I saw pictures of these lines back when I was a kid that I´d be able to see them for real. Moreover they are very fragile things and it is very much see them now before it is too late. So why do I seem to be more looking forward to a Sunday Roast at the Real McCoy Cusco. I would under normal circumstances be rushing to see them, but, well, as I´ve said before I personally need to travel at a slow pace.

I did have other goals, but they at the moment they are to be left on simmer. So maybe these goals are the purpose. More on those in future posts.

I´ve got used to the idea that there is no such thing as a job for life. It is difficult but possible to change profession. Over here I think that things are different, there is more a job for life culture. Every time you check into a hotel or hostel over here you have to give your profession. So many people over here have given up their jobs and maybe even their professions in view to making a life change. Just for the record I´m including myself in that group. So should you be honest and put down some title of a job you´re trying to get away from or lie. Well I´ve been putting writer for my profession. Not that I think I am one nor have a burning desire to be one. But it keeps people happy, and gives me a fresh start. No need to think about what I used to do and to be able to think i n the future.

Only after the last tree has been cut down,
Only after the last river has been poisoned,
Only after the last fish has been caught,
Only then will you find that money cannot be eaten.

I´m at about the 2 and a half month stage into this trip and I need some time to chill. I just want one week where I know what day it is, to have a weekend to get pissed and to do some mountainbiking. Yes I know that I could easy be in London traveling 1 hour each way to work and doing the 9 to 5. So some may think it strange that I want some routine. I know I`ve seen some fantastic things along the way and I´ve got even more to look forward to. But you need to be able to take it all in.
Yesterday we went to the Real McCoy bar in cusco. At s/ 25 for a roast dinner it´s expensive for a budget traveler, when you can get a three course dinner with drink for s/ 10. But it was Sunday afternoon a day off and I needed a treat, and a roasty. Ok, so it was roast alpaca. But it was still nice to have a big meal. We should still be here next Sunday so same again next Sunday.
During the week to fill the time, I want to do some Spanish study. Which I´ve not had time to lately. I´ve not been improving and it´s getting me down. Well I don´t feel as though I´ve imporved. At one stage in the next few months we´re going to do some volunteer work. For me hopefully using Spanish.
Still I´m feeling happy as I know that it´s Monday. Firstly I know the day and secondly it´s the start of the week, to relax a bit and to have a weekend

Well what can I say about both of these that hasn´t already been said. Machupicchu is now one of the wonders of the modern world and camino inka has long been one of the classic walks of the world. And rightly so, for both, as they are fantastic. But, if you want a step-by-step talk through of the walk then you need to look else where, maybe on a travel blog. Although this maybe looking more and more like a travel blog it isn´t by my intention.

So here´s my comments:

When we arrived at Machupicchu there was hordes of turists from agua calientes, ie all those who didn´t to the camino. Maybe a good idea would be to allow the walkers who get up at 4am to get there for early morning to have a few hours and then to let in all the rest. The 4 day walk is like a pilgrimage to machupicchu the royal city of the Inkas, and all you can hear is some obnoxious loud American talking, well, almost shouting. Maybe I need to justify what I just said. On this trip and others I´ve met Americans and they´ve been top people but there are a certain percentage, who are obnoxious. The same can be said of the British abroad and other nationalities. So please don´t be offended if you one of the former group as it´s been a pleasure to meet you.

If I had gone for the easier route I would have missed out, and not had a respect for what the inkas had created. I don´t think that people who may not be able to complete the trek should miss out but I think the people who do do it, should get the experience they were expecting. I think it is possible to have a balance.

Talking to one of our guides we found out that there has been a lot of changes with the agencies. He said 5 years ago they didn´t supply guides with tents and they had to go and find a cave to sleep in for the night. They now do provide a tent, albeit a two man tent for as many as three. But, the shock is the porters who 5 years ago didn´t have a limit on what they could carry. Apparently often carrying 40kg+. They now have a maximum of 20kg. But it´s hard to believe that the packs they carry, I would guess are at least 120 litres, are lighter than that. After they´ve had the "weigh in" they certainly are open two taking on more for a price. And who can blame them, with a wage for a day of s/20 to 25, they are working for survival not for profit. Also their days are long, the cook was providing food at 6am and carrying a gas canister big enough for the 4 days and for 15 people, along with the rest of the tooks of his trade, setting everything up for lunch and again at the evening camp for dinner. Thanks, Jose Maria (that´s his nickname I´ve forgot is real name). How many English twenty one year olds could russle up a 3 course dinner for 15 people, and good food at that, on a mountain.

The agency gave an indication that you should tip upto s/40 for the porters we gave 60. I don´t know what other goups gave, but we wanted to give more for this group who work so hard for so little.

So what have I learned from this is, maybe we should be asking agencies about the native people who will be working on this kind of trip and how they will be treated, and not just thinking about how will I be treated.

Arriving at Cusco leaves you breathless. Walk too fast and you`re panting for air. The locol cure for altitude sickness is chewing coca leaves or drinking them as a tea. My intention was always to buy some warm clothing here. Seemed the logical thing to do. You don´t need warm kit in Central America and the Alpaca wool clothes here are cheap. I got one of those silly hats for a pound (s/7).

I really want to spend a bit of time here. it´s a good base to do some mountain biking and to see the Amazon. I´ve got tired of all the travel I just want to know what day it is and to have a week with a weekend. Yes, it´s good to chill, but I like to keep productive and I feel as though I´m not at the moment. Two weeks consentrating on my Spanish wood be good, and getting pissed at the weekends.

I need to pack for tomorrow the start of the trip to do el camino inca. I´m not sure what to expect now. Most of the travel blogs I´ve read make it sound ok, people here make it sound hard going, but they would they want you to buy loads of stuff.