Sunday, September 30, 2007

 

Ayacucho to Andahyualas then to Cuzco


We got up at 5 to catch our 6;30 bus. The first thing I noticed about the bus/coach was that it had off road tyres on and a row of 5 spot light on the front. Now I thought that Ayacucho was a pretty remote place. I was wrong. Leaving the town we left tarmac behind and started on the dirt road. the dirt road then got steeper and narrower. There were places where the road was getting erroded and these seemed to be at areas of the road with all the steep drops and I do mean steep. I need to point out that I seemed to always be sitting on the side with the drops.
We got to the high point of the road and had a stop everyone got off and went for a piss. Even the women were just squatting down and pissing. I had a really bad head ache at this time and got a sick bag ready as I had nausea as well. All symptoms of the altitude. The disappeared as quickly as my fear returned on the journey down. The driver seemed to be driving at road speeds off road! And again there were big drops everywhere. After 10 hours of contant bumps form the road and shear drops we arrived at Andahyualas.

Half way there our bus to Cuzco left at 6:30pm and it was already dark. This bus also had off road tyres, so looked like we were going over the same type of roads in the dark. Well only 11hours to go. This road is bumpier and I think (it was dark) but looked like it had the same type of drops. After arriving at Abancay the road turned to tarmac and it stayed like that to Cuzco.

We arrived at the bus station how you would feel after 22 hours of traveling. Even I was keep on getting a taxi. Although I was keen on getting a taxi I wasn´t keen on getting swindled. I asked an official looking guy at the station and he said 3soles for a taxi to the centre. As expected the taxi drivers said 6. I was negociating and some bitch trying to sell a hostel butted in to say the normal price is 15 and 6 was a good deal (Taxi drivers are well known for doing special prices at 6 in the morning, sure). While I was praticing my Spanish with her (read as giving her a good slaging off), Lisa got the taxi driver down to 4soles. So we went for that.

Now one thing I new back in London, never mind Lima, was that there´s a flight which takes only one hour to Cuzco form Lima. So what would I do in future? At the moment I would have to say fly. I really feel knackered and stressed, it was dangerous. And after the Inca trail I just want to spend a week to two weeks chilling. But isn´t it nice to have this choice of being able to choose how we travel. Many, if not all on that bus don´t have that choice. So maybe you are getting more of an experience buy traveling this way. I certainly met some really nice peruvians on the trip, and saw some fantastic scenary. Give it a few weeks and I think my answer would be different.

 

Lima to Ayacucho

The only bus leaving Lima for Ayacucho is at 9:30pm from the Cruz de sur bus station, it`s through the night arriving at 7:00am. The cruz del sur bus station is positioned right central in the red light district. When we arrived I wasn´t feeling too well. I didn`t sleep for the whole journey that`s the journey in the bus and not the journey of the pain in my digestive tract. The journey of that ended with a vistit to the on bus toilet never a nice experience. Trying to wash my hands soap sperted out of the dispenser all over me. I wasn´t in a good mood. After arriving at the station and a taxi ride to the hotel recommended by the hotel in Lima. I managed to get an hour´s sleep. I think the effects of the altitude were already starting here. Later we got the ticket for the day after. I was stunned it was a 22hour journey to Cuzco. Ho joy.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

 

Lima

Compared to capital cities of central America like San Jose and Tegus Lima has character and I certainly would return.

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

 

San Jose to Lima, Perú

Well goodbye San Jose, and your McMierda, Burger King, Taco Bell,................... So we arrived at the airport and we were given, well Lisa was given an questionire to complete on how our stay was. We didn`t really do anything what was to offer and I´m sure Costa Rica has a lot to offer, but San Jose it does lack culture, ok it has a culture but if I wanted that I`d go to America. If you want to learn Spanish or practise Spanish, again don´t bother. Would I return maybe!

In the airport we could see the sky outside getting more an more grey and then when we were on the plane it started to rain. Really rain and then the storm started. Delay for the storm to pass. Lisa`s was not liking all this.

Lima Perù we arrived about 1 hour late not too bad. We had arranged a hotel and taxi through the internet and our taxi driver was waiting for us with my name on a board, "Simon Slawson"! The taxi driver was really nice. Usually their not my favourite people. He started talking in Spanish about the weather, about it being cold. After spending two months now in mostly tropical heat I was really feeling the cold. Before getting into the taxi I got my waterproof out of my Ruck to keep me warm. My fleese was in the bottom of my ruck. The chofer said to me that I needed a "Pisco". I didn´t know what pisco was. It`s the local alcoholic beverage, stonge stuff apparently. I asked about the local food he recommended "ceviche" . He turned out to be a very chatty driver giving us lots of information about the city. Are all peruvians this friendly? We arrived at our hotel, Hotel España. 47soles for a double room with bathroom. But I wasn`t expecting what we got it`s done out like a, well, like a stately home, with plaster busts and sculptures, pictures, real human skulls, guest who haven`t paid the taxi driver jokes (see pictures). We got to our room and more of the same with a BIG mirror on the wall and more pictures. So a very nice room if a bit cold. Time to get out my fleese, which I`ve not needed for the last two months. When I got it out from the bottom of my ruck it was covered in mold and stunk to high hell. Beautiful! Now that I need it I have to wash it. After washing and doing some wringing. We head out in search of food. there`s a resturant next to the hotel so why go further. Ceviche in on the menu so is pisco. Sounds good. And boy was it good. I`ve had ceviche before but not like this. It was a big plate with a mixture of prawns, sole, octopus, squid, scollops, and fresh. Easyly the best food I´ve had so far.
Pisco, well it reminds me of something but I´m not sure what. And it`s strong enough to keep you warm while your warm clothes dry out. Now, it`s out on the town to look for some more drinking places, again more friendly people, although one was a bit loco.
Back to the hotel to CHILL.

Monday, September 24, 2007

 

San Jose

Well San Jose certainly looks more like a capital city than Tegus or Managua. There´s money here American Money.
After having enought of cold showers, bad beds and sharing our rooms with ants, jumping spiders, etc, we went for a splurge and stayed at the Gran Hotel Costa Rica.

 

Liberia

Liberia was a shock, I think I´ve become used to countries like Nicaragua and all the have nots. Whereas here there are plenty of haves, and things to buy. The cars here, well about 95% look like they could/maybe pass a MOT. In Nicaragua easy 95% would fail. Reading the local paper there was an article on young nicaraguan girls being brought over the border to work as prostitutes.
Feels safe.
.....Not sure what else to say, it´s a ok town but nothing remarkable. That´s all.

Friday, September 21, 2007

 

Taxi, taxi.

Now, I know people have to make a living but there´s trying to make a living and then there´s taxi drivers. They seem to pester you all the time over here and when you do need to use one they don´t want to take you for the going rate or/and to where you want to go. By saying "no" to them, this seems to mean, "I´m not sure" or "I want to negociate the price".

Rather, than getting stressed, I tried to have some fun and started saying Taxi Taxi, and they instantly loose interest. Complete oposite of what to do in England, but what the hell. For a quiet life just say taxi taxi and they shut up.

 

SJdS to Liberia

We left in the morning for the border Pañas blancas. A chicken bus took us all the way to La vergin where there was the other bus from Rivas waiting for people from SJdS. A short jouney got us to the very well pañas blancas. Now I´ve been to other fontera towns before but this one was different. It was very busy, muddy, chaotic. There were guys trying to scam us all the time no signs to where to go. We had to pay to just get into the area to go to the Nicaraguan control. Which we weren´t told and were told we couldn´t use Cordobas any more so we changed all our money to Colones. Then after trying to dodge some more scammers, one of which followed us to the control and wouldn´´t leave, we were told we needed to pay in Cordobas. I managed to pay in $ which always seem to come in handy for times like these. The scammer guy wanted a tip for telling us something we already new. I was scared something was going to go missing with so many of these characters about my passport had already fallen into the mud, I must have looked a easy target.
We get to the Costa Rican side things are a little more organised. It is now getting too late in the day to make it all the way to Tamarindo, so we have lunch opposite passport control and get the bus to Liberia.

 

San Juan del Sur

We arrived at Casa oro, the golden house, mmmmmmm. We stayed only because we weren´t in the mood to go anywhere else. Only when we were in the room did reality hit how bad the room was. We had constant power cuts and the generator was only good enough for several lights. There was one internet cafe with a good generator and we booked a nice hotel for San Jose, with hot water, level bed, which is less than 20 years old, a toilet that flushes and hopefully no bare live wires.

Thursday, September 20, 2007

 

Ometepe to San Juan del sur

Well, although there´s not much here, I`m quite sad to leave this place. The hotel staff are all really friendly. I`m pretty sure that we`re the only guests left here. Also the island is full of wildlife, monkeys etc. Arriving at the port the bus passed by the model of the island. Which looks in a sorry state, a bit like the rest of the place. It`s about 1 hour to the other side and there are no buses to the bus station in Rivas. Our taxi driver had a few problems with taking us to the bus station and wanted to take us all the way to San juan del sur. Buses to taxi drivers are the work of the Devil and you need to avoid them at all costs. The price came down from c200 to c180 and then to c150. We were still insistent that we just wanted to go to the bus station. 5 minute later we stopped, there was a distinct lack of buses. The driver walks to another taxi and comes back. There`s another driver who will do c40 each to San Juan del sur. This was over the odds for a colectivo but we didn´t know where we were nor if the guy was going to take us to the station. The taxi ride turned out to be more dangerous than climbing the active volcano!

 

Volcan Concepcion

Early rise 5am. The alarm goes off but I´m awake. I have been for hours, cocks crowing and goats bleeting or what ever they do.
We`d packed out rucksacks the night before. Good job too, I`m really not in the mood for packing. We walk out to the reception to meet Rafael our guide for the day. He didn`t speak English and because of this we got a discount. Works for me. We set off on the button 6am. I thought that it would be quiet at this time in the morning but it turned out to be rush hour over here, with hurds of cows being taken to pasture, etc. We walk down to La Sabana where we leave the road and start heading up and the track turns into a path. We arrive at the park station. Well some wood posts and some banana leaves. We had to pay the park ranger 1$ or their rate in cordobas, ie more expensive. From here on the track got steeper, steamier and more overgrown. And more like a tropical rain forrest. Funny that. It wasn´t raining but we were wet, even my watch was steamed up which only happened once before in similar conditions. Short breaks and longer ones when there was room to have them. There´s brief views through the mist. We finally break through the forest, onto steeper ground. Lisa is looking really tired and is talking about quiting. I want here to carry on. I´ve got some history in this type of activity and I know how rewarding it is to get to the top. But I have to admit it, it is tough and she´s doing really well.
A few hundred meters further one and a strong wind starts. Strong wind. Good thing. It´s now a lot cooler. Bad thing Lisa wants to stay. Talking to the guide He wants Alice to stay as well. That´s what he called her. We head for el tope. No walking now, well not like a man more like a cat. The ground levels off and I can just see the crator. Visability is low about 10 feet. As I get near to the crator´s edge I can feel the coldwind on the back of my neck and hot fumes on my face and the smell of sulphur. We had a quick chat about when the last eruption was and head of back down to collect Lisa who was snug under her poncho. As we walk down the rain starts and I´m now feeling tired. We get back 10 minutes shy of 10 hours.

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

 

Granada to Isla Ometepe

It was time to leave Granada and the next destination was the island ometepe. It´s an island formed from two volcanos. The smaller one is dormant and has a lake in its crator and the larger one Concepcion is active, and is 1,610 metres.

We headed off to the far end of town to catch the chicken bus to Rivas. We got on the bus as usual pushing past all the vendors, selling soft drinks, nuts, god, water, cake, you get the idea. After waiting for about half an hour, a lady at the front got out of her seat to help a old man on to the bus, he grabbed hold of the drivers seat to steady his wobbly legs and then sat in it. The lady returned to her seat and made a crucifix sign. Usually our bet is will the bus make it to the destination, this time it was would the driver.
"Beautiful, we have a coffin dodger for a driver."

A taxi to the port, a boat and another bus we arrived at Altagracia. The start point for the 10 hour hike/scramble up the Volcan Concepcion. Went for our first choice of hotel, which was Hotel Central, then went in search for the tourist office to get a guide for the hike. Again very easy to find. Altagracia is not a large place. Getting for for the hike was. There`s not many shops. There`s not much at all. But that is what I liked about here.

 

Granada

The centre of Granada is more impressive than Leon. It´s got a very colonial Spanish feel, but it`s also got a very Gringo feel about it as well. There`s lots of expats here, read as American Expats. So why are they here? Well it`s cheap and well it looks like there are other reasons as well. We had dinner at some posh, by the standards here, and at a table near by was a older American woman with some young local stud. Later a old American came in with a very young girl in hand.

We stayed at the Hostel La libertad, which had a hippy commune feel to it. More so with the on site cool who I was talking to. I recognised her accent from Andalucia. She was Ana, a hippy chick from Sevilla on a round the would trip who got stuck here.

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

 

Cerro negro


Leon is a quiet town with not much to do, but go a bit outside and there`s lots, pipeline waves on the coast and volcanos inland. The Bigfoot hostel are the experts in an unusual trip.

Active Volcano Boarding.

After an hour and half walking we got to the top of Volcan Cerro Negro, there`s was a smell of sulphur and it was hot. Digging about 4-6 inches into the ground the ground was too hot to touch. 2 minutes of instruction and protective gear on we were ready for action. Tricky to handle and fast. Sensory overload as you got a mouth full of volcanic ash and ash everywhere. This is by far one of the strangest activities I`ve taken part in.

 

Leon


Sunday, September 09, 2007

 

Leon - Nicaragua

We arrived in Leon and went to Via Via the same group of hostels where we stayed in Copan. But opposite was the Big foot hostel a bit cheaper and still had a kitchen. So I can cook again!
After my experience with food poisoning I`m keen to be more in control with the food I eat. Don`t get me wrong I love to try new food, but you have to be pragmatic. In Tegus I went to Pizza Hut for the salad buffet, not very exotic or different I know but it´s what I needed.
I really don´t want to get food poisoning again after the last time, I still don`t feel fully recovered and I`ve lost loads of weight.

 

Ocotal - Nicaragua

Cross the border from Honduras to Nicaragua.
I thought this was one of those border towns where the only reason to be there was that it was near the border. I was right. The only interesting thing was that we had a power-cut, but thanks to Felix I was prepared with my head torch in my bag.
The feel of the town was, well, safer than Honduras. But I´m not sure why. Maybe because the men were not carrying guns and machetes. That could be it.
One night was enough and we were off again. The road to Leon was like out of an American movie. The road was straight and went off into the horizon. Route 66 and all that shit. The difference here was the road had been tarmacked, once, I´m not sure when. Safe to say a long time ago. There was more pot holes than smooth bits. The Chicken buses in the distance had plums of dust coming from their tyres. There was an occasional dead dog with buzzards picking at its flesh, and a few views of some volcanos to take our minds of the bumpy journey.

 

Tegucigalpa - Tegus

This was our hide-out from Felix which never arrived here. We went to the Granada II because it had a backup generator and also TV. We ended up spending 4 days in this uninteresting capital city. I was glad it was uneventful as when we did do any exploring ie to try and find a bus station 10minutes walk from the centre a local told me to get in a taxi as it wasn`t a safe area. The city does have a bad vibe. The only good thing was a nice restaurant called Duncan Mayan, which serves a really nice horse steak.

 

Felix II

While we were in Roatan we befriended a unbelievably skinny cat, which we christened Felix. We even went so far as to buy it a tin of sardines and it was hanging around our hut day and night. This started a turf war with another cat (bigger cat). Felix won.

Tuesday, September 04, 2007

 

Felix

We had been thinking that we could go to La Ceiba and wait Felix out in a nice hotel - most hotels on Roatan are little wood cabins. La Ceiba is just on the coast and we could easy get back to the bay islands if felix missed or died out. At this time it was looking like it was going to the north of Roatan and we had two days before it would hit anyway. Also I really didn´t feel up to doing much traveling in my condition as I´d only been able to eat a pot noodle and two bananas in the last two days.
However when we arrived in La Ceiba there was some new news, Felix had changed course more south ie heading right for us again. We decided to move to the capital Tegus, well I needed some convincing as I wasn´t feeling that well. It was only when I got to the bus station and then went to a pharmacy and while walking down the street and certain things that got me thinking. What did I see? There were several guys with pistols in the pockets of their jeans, others with machetes. I was thinkin that getting through a hurricane was one thing but the days after where the infrastructure of the city is down. What would happen? Looting, rape, murder..? The next big town further inland is San Pedro ie the Aids capital of Central America, and famous for its crime and gangs. No, were´re doing the right thing, get out of town.
Well were`re now in Tegus and we`ve been watching the news Felix started to break up when it hit land and most of the damage has been flooding. All we´ve had is a bit of rain.
Simon and Jill who stayed on the island, Jill was doing her padi, were evacuated and went to Mexico City.
I´ve now got some ciproflaxino and feeling a lot better. Although, a lot thiner after about 6 days of diarrhoea and eating little.
Now I would love to see a hurricane in relative safety. But I would rather miss it and be sure. Here in Tegus, gauges (pump action shotguns) are as ever present as always. Go for a coffee there´s a guard with a gauge, Pizza Hut there`s tow guards, the corner shop you´re in a steel cage and you have to ask or point for what you want. This is not a country to be in if the shit hits the fan.

 

Roatan

I was going to Roatan with the intention of doing a diving course - Padi open water (**see below). The prices are the cheapest in the world, but the most important reason I wanted to do it was that I have a friend who does a lot of diving and I wanted to see why he likes it so much.
We booked a minibus from our hotel ViaVia to the port, and there was another couple who were also going to Roatan - Simon (expat living in OZ) and Jill (Australian). We were getting on so well we decided to twin cabin so we could hang out together.
The boat to Roatan leaves at 7pm and we arrived just in the nick of time at 6:50. Roatan is very expensive for certain things eg the internet was 4Lempiras per minute. For this reason I´ve not been writing emails these last few days. It was only when we saw that there was a storm Felix that we started to use it.
We decided to take it easy for the first few days to relax from the traveling. Also I wasn´t feeling too well. The second day I was going to book onto a dive course but I started with stomach cramps as well as diarrhoea. I needed to wait until I got better, but we had time. Two days after I wasn´t feeling that much better but I went snorkling with Lisa, which was my first time snorking and was amazing. So I was really keen on doing a dive course now. But I needed to get better. The problem was there´s no pharmacy on Roatan in the west end and the only stuff they had wasn´t working. This later proved to be a minor problem.
We´d been talking with Simon and Jill about waiting Felix out in a better hotel on the island. But later that night we went to check the news on the internet and saw that Felix had changed into a cat 5 hurricane and was heading right for us.

**Now I´ve said many a time that I would never do a dive course because it does not interest me but what`s the point in going on a life changing experience if you`re not going to be open to new things and try new things.
TIME TO LEAVE!

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